Liguria packs the Riviera, Portofino and the Cinque Terre into a narrow strip of coast and steep hillside. The light and the sea are unforgettable; the buying reality is vertical, tight and tourist-pressured, with a checklist all of its own.

Postcard-perfect and almost entirely car-free, vertical and intensely touristed. For some buyers that's the dream; for others a stair-climb too far. We give you the practical picture, including how the place lives once the day-trippers leave.
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