Puglia's charm is real: trulli, whitewashed towns, masserie and olive groves to the horizon. So is the rise in foreign demand. The charm hides specifics: heritage planning on trulli, the scale of a masseria restoration, the land itself, and a market that moves with the tourist season.

The whitewashed Salento, the trullo country of the Valle d'Itria and the working towns each offer a very different year. We give you the honest off-season picture before you fall for an August version of a place.
Share the listing and we'll tell you which level of check fits, from a 390 euro Quick Check upward.